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For the owners of rear leaf spring suspended vehicles that are driven often on the street. Under acceleration the front of the spring is utilized to push the vehicle forward and what tends to happen the spring "winds up" and creates a loss of traction. Our kit is used in conjunction with the standard spring to eliminate this problem. Kit consists of diff bracketry, 45 mm x 3 mm wall front cross tube with brackets, 2 direct threaded 25.4 mm x 3.96 mm wall links with LH & RH Urethane bushed rod end and all mounting hardware.
11-1115 2 LINK KIT - STEEL TUBES - BUSHED ENDS ALSO AVAILABLE 11-1115 2 LINK KIT - STEEL TUBES - BUSHED ENDS 11-1116 2 LINK KIT - STAINLESS TUBES - STAINLESS BUSHED ENDS 11-1117 2 LINK KIT - MOLY TUBES - BUSHED ENDS 11-1118 2 LINK KIT - MOLY TUBES - MOLY HEIM ENDS 11-1119 2 LINK KIT - STEEL TUBES - BUSHED ENDS - SUIT BA FORD
Introduction The reason for producing this rod system was to reduce the strain and wind up of the front section of the leaf spring and more control of the pinion angle and housing movement upon hard acceleration. 1. Raise the vehicle off the ground to an acceptable height to work under, if you have a hoist it would be much easier to install. 2. Determine the widest distance apart you can position the brackets and rods and as close as possible to your leaf spring or chassis rails. 3. With your predetermined width position the diff bracket in that position on the underside of the diff housing
4. To keep the correct bracket separation use the rod ends or spacer tube from the rod end and bolt the unit together, don’t overtighten the nyloc nuts as it will make it difficult to remove and replace the rod end after welding. Make sure the brackets are at 90 deg. to the housing tube and when you’re satisfied spot-weld the brackets into position. The 2 link diff brackets hang underneath the diff housing.
5. Again check for squareness and level as stated and proceed to weld. NOTE: to make sure you don’t distort the housing when welding, only weld approx 1/3 around each bracket then proceed to the other end of the housing and do the same, welding like this allows for the housing to cool and tends for the housing not to distort. 6. Carry out the same procedure as per 3, 4, and 5, with the front crossmember tube which runs underneath the tailshaft and trim to suit your chassis. 7. Prior to welding in the front crossmember, assemble the rods and make sure they are of the same length, install onto the diff and front crossmember brackets and position the crossmember up between the chassis rails. NOTE: if the crossmember is to be welded to a stamped type rail it would be best to reinforce the area with 3 mm plate prior to welding in the crossmember. Try to make the lower rods as parallel to the ground as possible and square to the chassis rails with the vehicle in its ride position. Weld in the crossmember. Tighten up all lock nuts. 8. For street application run the pinion angle as per standard, for drag application it is best to set the pinion angle at approx 2-3 deg down by adjusting the rods out. It is not advisable to run that angle on the street as vibrations will occur at high speeds
