TRIANGLE 4 LINK KIT - WELD IN
Weld In Triangle 4 Link Kit
When you want to upgrade the rear suspension on your Street Machine or Street Rod and you require all the control of a 4 link system but don't have the room McDonald Bros have designed this triangulated 4 link kit.
This system can be used in conjunction with coil over shockers or air bags.
All control rods are 25.4 mm x 3.96 mm wall tube with left and right hand threaded urethane bushed rod ends for a smooth, quiet ride. Universal bracketry supplied can be trimmed to suit every application.
11-1110 TRIANGULATED 4 LINK - STEEL TUBES - BUSHED ROD ENDS
11-1111 TRIANGULATED 4 LINK - STAINLESS STEEL - BUSHED ROD ENDS
11-1112 TRIANGULATED 4 LINK - MOLY TUBES - BUSHED ROD ENDS
11-1113 TRIANGULATED 4 LINK - MOLY TUBES - MOLY ROD ENDS
11-1114 TRIANGULATED 4 LINK - STEEL TUBES - CANTILEVER SET UP
Installation of Triangulated 4 Link System
The reason for producing this rod system was for customers wanting to remove the leaf springs from their vehicle and instal coil over shockers or air bags for better ride quality, also better control of the pinion angle and housing movement upon hard acceleration.
NOTE: BECAUSE THIS IS A UNIVERSAL KIT, BRACKETRY MAY HAVE TO BE TRIMMED TO SUIT YOUR VEHICLE APPLICATION
1. If leaf springs are installed on the vehicle it is sometimes better to leave them in, set up the tri-angle 4 link and then remove so that the diff stays in its correct position.
2. Raise the vehicle off the ground to an acceptable height to work under, if you have a hoist it would be much easier to install.
3. Determine the widest distance apart you can position the lower brackets and rods and as close as possible to your leaf spring or chassis rails. Brackets #1 for front crosstube and brackets #2 for the diff.
4. With your predetermined width, position the diff brackets #2 in that position on the diff housing and square them to the diff tube. Try to make the lower rods as parallel to the ground as possible and square to the chassis rails with the vehicle in its ride position.
5. To keep the correct bracket separation use the rod ends or spacer tube from the rod end and bolt the unit together, don’t overtighten the nyloc nuts as it will make it difficult to remove and replace the rod end after welding. Make sure the brackets are at 90 deg. to the housing tube and when you’re satisfied spot-weld the brackets into position.
6. Again check for squareness and level as stated and proceed to weld. NOTE: to make sure you don’t distort the housing when welding, only weld approx 1/3 around each bracket then proceed to the other end of the housing and do the same, welding like this allows for the housing to cool and tends for the housing not to distort.
7. Trim the front crosstube to fit between the chassis rails and loop under the tailshaft. NOTE: if the crossmember is to be welded to a stamped type rail it would be best to reinforce the area with 3 mm plate. Carry out the same procedure with the front crossmember brackets #1 as per 3, 4 & 5. Spot weld in the crossmember.
8. To install the upper link rods it is best to reinstall the diff housing back onto the leaf springs and completely assemble the brackets and rods together, making sure they are assembled to the same length. Position the upper diff brackets #5 inner and #6 outer as close to the centre pumpkin of the housing as possible. The upper rods should angle down from the upper rear brackets to the front brackets. With the front of the rod and brackets #4 inner and #3 outer mounted to the inner chassis rail, (the brackets supplied may have to be trimmed to sit flush at this time) spot weld in place and recheck all measurements.
9. Prior to final welding, remove leaf springs if being utilised. Install rods into the diff and front brackets, raise and lower the diff with a jack through 150-200 mm travel making sure there is no binding. Now is the time to correct any faults. Finally weld in the crossmember and bracketry. Tighten up all lock nuts.